October Sailing Story
by Skip Riley   
 

We left the protection of the Ala Wai Small Craft Harbor at 0-dark-30 in the early morning hours of October 10, 2009, bound on a 9 day cruise around the inner-most Hawaiian Islands.


 Hale'o Lono Harbor

The weather was balmy, the air light. The smell of the land permeated the air, reminiscent of what we sense after a Trans ocean passage. All one had to do was remember. The weather service reported a break in the daily calms and high humidity of the past week. The forecast was 15-20 knots of NE winds. Certainly palatable. We cleared Diamond Head, watching the sun rise as we passed.  The channel winds were felt and by Koko Head we had winds at 15-18 knots.  As we approached mid channel, there was our 25 knots.

The “TUATHA” sailed well under a new Port Townsend built roller furling 100% Genoa. Her main too was from Port Townsend, and was already reefed.  So we sailed on.  I had recently rebuilt the self steering vane so I was anxious to exercise her.  Under sail and self steering we forged our way.  “Tuatha” herself had not been out in a year and change. This was only because of her master’s bout with a defective “weather leg” which failed me early in the year.  So we both had to regain our pace.


 John Fitzgeral

We anchored our Westsail 32 in Hale Lono, Molokai after a channel crossing of 11 hours.  Not bad at all.  We rested here one day.  I dove in and cleaned the vessel’s bottom while John Fitzgerald took watch on the sail bags forward.  John has sailed with me far and wide – countless passages around Southern California’s Channel Islands, as well as a Trans Pacific cruise. When I came up from cleaning the bottom of the boat the entire cockpit was swarmed by bees. John and I fought them long and hard.  Neither of us, for unknown reason, ever got stung, nor did we win the battle. The bees left about 4:30pm on their own accord.  I have since learned they are attracted to fresh water.  So “Beware the bees of Lono”


 Five Needles; Nanahoa, Lana'i

The wind settled and so did we. We left Lono in the morning on the 12th in a flat calm to Lanai. A more pleasant journey could never be had.  We explored “Needles” and anchored finally in the commercial harbor at the southern-most point of Lanai. Here I watched the skill of the captain of the tug and barge.  Amazing how these tritons of the sea maneuver those large vessels in such tight quarters, amazing.  I secretly desired a turn on the helm.

Next day we rounded Lanai and anchored finally in Black Manele, off the harbor breakwater in 32ft. of water, just off the reef.  Here I dove on what is called the most beautiful reef in Hawaii. It was truly beautiful.  I also sounded the Manele Bay Harbor entrance.  I saw no “rainbow rock”; I think it has been removed. The normal depth I got was 8ft., not the controlling depth of 6ft.  So to those wondering whether to enter or not, be so advised; if your draft is 6ft. you’ll likely make it. But don’t take my word for it. This is my unofficial experience.


 "Dolphins of Lanai"

We then left for Maui, again in a flat calm.  Enroute, we were surrounded by the “dolphins of Lanai”.  Reported as the escort service, it appears that they admire us as we do them.  After arriving at Maui, we anchored off Mala Wharf in 28ft. water.  We spent two days here surrounded by others of like mind, just inbound of the Mala reef break.  Here the surf broke 4-8 ft. and it was good.  Both John and I paddled out.  John did better than I did, due to my “Lolo” leg.  It will be some time, if ever, before I will be surfing again.  In any case the paddle was awesome.   

The nice thing about Mala Wharf was the easy access to the surf, shopping center and restaurant.  I think this is one of the better spots to anchor if you require any amenities.  Can’t compare to Hanalei though. Thank you, Jeff Naus, skipper of “Moonshadow”, for that experience.

After two days we sailed back to Molokai.  By now the conditions had changed and full trades were back.  The channel forecast was for 20 knots.  We left about 10:00 and hit the wind line about 11:00; 15 knots, then 20 knots.  In anticipation, the headsail was reduced to 60% and the main single reefed.  At 25 knots, then 30 knots combined with 4-5 ft. seas, the sail area had to be reduced again.  Finally, at 30-35 knots the main was taken down.  We “smoked” this 22,000 lb vessel downwind at 7.54 knots; quite a feat and quite an experience.  As we reached down the Molokai Coast the seas built and the wind peaked at about 40 knots – we passed the Southern coast in style and “surfed” past Kaunakakai.  As the day wore on the seas built, likely to about 6ft (Molokai Island protected us somewhat from seas). But added to this was a surf advisory for an 8-10 ft. south swell and I became concerned about our Lono Harbor destination.  Lono, as we know, is exposed to the south swell.  This time of year there is not supposed to be a south swell! 


 Hole'o Lono Harbor "Residents"

On approach to Lono entrance, the side wind increased and the surf cascaded onto the off-lying reefs.  In 54 ft. of water the swells could be felt.   This became very sobering as we made our approach.  Three 8 ft. swells preceded our entry, the swells breaking on the reef on either side with, say, a 12ft. face.  Atop these swells were the seas.  If the wind had not been diagonal along shore I would never have attempted the entrance.  As it was it was makeable.  We followed the last swell in the set and, with the engine at 3500 rpm and half of the headsail up, we made our entry. 

It was twilight by the time we anchored and mellowed out.  Both John and I were glad we were “home” for the night.  The unofficial caretaker Capt. Chuck of Hale Lone came over and we spoke of experiences and agreed that there would be little to our October story if we had not at least a mini storm to talk about...  The next day we departed and sailed the 60 or so miles back to Honolulu.  The weather was fine at 20 knots. 

Bottom line, the preparation of the boat made our October journey just about flawless.  We had no breakage, though the roller furling line chafed through once.  But that was it.  Preparation is everything!  Click Here for more pictures   
Any questions on an October passage around Hawaii? Contact Capt. Skip: 271-0905   

Tuatha De  Danaan                                                                     
Westsail 32
LOA 38ft - Beam 11ft - Draft 6f
 
 

the MEXICO Baja ha ha IS ACCESSIBLE TO HAWAII YACHTS

                        By Capt. Skip Riley                                     

 
 

Mexico, our nearest neighbor, is just east and south of us.  Mexico and Central America are the last great untouched, generally unregulated cruising grounds in the Western Hemisphere.  So if the spirit of adventure and romance is still alive within you, read on.  Let’s go south, down Mexico way.
    For me the seeds for cruising Mexico were planted in the late 70's in Hawaii.  I listened to the older sailors talk and gesture, wild eyed, about distant ports that were accessible from Hawaii. (Capt. Steve Mann was one of them).  So I left Hawaii for the mainland to search for a cruising boat that was stout, small enough to afford and large enough to cross oceans.  On the mainland, I discovered cruisers making their way south, not for Hawaii or the South Pacific, but heading south down Mexico way.  I heard the stories of a simpler people, people who still believed in family, who stayed together, working, playing and praying; a people whose foundations lay in the interface between the land and the sea.  I heard of a land without jet airplanes, highways and causeways; a coast peppered with untouched bays, coves and natural harbors.  I heard of calm emerald waters, pristine surf, white sand beaches and bountiful fishing.  Mexico had to be again discovered, and soon, by me on my ship “Tuatha”.
    In 2001, after an autumn passage from California to Hawaii in 2000, I contemplated that, though I was now able to destine the South Pacific, I had missed Mexico.  So there I was, sitting in the Hawaii Yacht Club with the morning coffee crowd, when a cruiser came in wearing a “Baja Ha Ha” T-shirt.  Upon inquiry I was soon being fed - again - with stories of adventure along the Mexican coast.  So a mid-life crisis, coupled with my well-traveled West Sail 32, suggested that I had no choice but to cruise.  I laid the course for the journey back from Hawaii to California, then from California to Baja and then on to mainland Mexico, and finally a trans-pacific voyage back to Hawaii.  Was it reasonable to undertake such a voyage?  Of course, and Mexico is for you too.  Here is how we did it.
    The crew search seemed to be the hardest.  Everyone I spoke with (HYC and the mainland) wanted to go, liked the idea, but no one could break their societal bonds and ties.  They couldn’t, and I could not give up.  I posted an ad on the bulletin board at Ala Wai Marine and was answered.  After a short interview, the hauling of the vessel and the loading of the groceries and fuel, we were on our way.  On August 16, 2001 Kaena Point was left to starboard.  The trades were blustery the first part of the trip (up to 30 knots NE with quite choppy seas) and it stayed that way for eight days.  By the time I lost 10 lbs we had made 34* North.  The wind veered westerly and we were off to the NE.  Soon “Tuatha” found the pacific high and we motor-sailed for another eight to twelve days (Rick Shema of weatherguy.com was right on with the weather. Thanks Rick.) 


Tuatha

The “Tuatha”, a West Sail 32, carries eighty gallons of fuel (about twice as much as similarly sized vessels) and so we motor sailed.  The wind then became ENE, this time to 30 knots.  While we had made good 35* to 36* North we were pushed south to the latitude of San Diego.  As expected the northing was made up as we pressed on over the next 1,000 miles.  As we approached the mainland coast 600 miles offshore the weather changed from clear to overcast.  The sea water temperature dropped into the 60's and the overcast changed to fog; chilly by any standard.  We approached the mainland between Pt. Conception and San Miguel Island, but did not see land until less than 5 miles offshore of Ventura on September 14 th (three days after the world had changed on 9-11...)  We had made the coast in 28 days.  Not a bad passage by cruising standards (Harry Pidgeon - 45days circa 1950's).  Here the boat was attended to; sails were repaired, refinements made, and stores replenished.  I went to Ham radio school (and dancing school) in San Diego.  I successfully learned both.  After another quest for crew “Tuatha” departed again on January 23 rd 2002 for Mexico.
     Our “Baja Ha Ha” trip began as we departed the Anacapa Boat Yard in the Channel Islands Harbor on a cool and blustery late January day.  The winds were NW and mui frio (very cold), as an Alaskan weather front had just passed through.  At the harbor entrance we turned south and headed for Catalina Island.  Some 15 hours later we left Santa Barbara Island to starboard, then Catalina Island to port followed by San Clemente Island to starboard then onward to San Diego.  Our stop in San Diego was brief and only for fuel.  Here my crew was given their last opportunity to jump ship.  Neither did- in fact each wanted to continue immediately.  So immediately we departed and several hours later we crossed the US/Mexican border.

 
 

     The border crossing was very different as Mexico is different.  The difference is very apparent even from 5 miles offshore. Gone were the large hotels, bridges and business office buildings.  Gone were the stately coastal mansions.  These were replaced by older smaller buildings and smaller, less conspicuous, homes. The smells changed as did the geography.  In Mexico our wealth centered society gives way to the more important family and community oriented values of the less well-to-do Mexico.  The people are seemingly family oriented and deeply religious.  Here Christian beliefs seem to permeate all walks of life from business to recreation.
     Our first Mexican stop was Bahia de Tortola (Turtle Bay) some 200 plus nautical miles south of the border.  The bay is south of Cedros Island and just south-east around Punta Eugenia. Turtle Bay is just a small outpost with little connection to mainland Mexico.  It is quaint, quiet and simple, situated on a large bay surrounded by dry and barren hills.  Each town is built around a Catholic church. 
     Here we met Ernesto, who had inherited the fuel dock from the famous Gordo of 70’s fame, like the Texaco dock at Ala Wai.  Ernesto hailed us in spanglish (a combination of English and Spanish) looking for candy.  We gave him candy for his many children, bought fuel from him and visited him at his house for burritos. We later had cerveza (beer) at the Bahia de Tortola Yacht Club (just a small beer shack) where I inscribed HAWAII YACHT CLUB on the post.  THEY ALREADY HAD A BURGEE.   It was an old one - but it was there!  Thank you to one of our HYC predecessors -of a past cruising generation.
     The weather changed while we were at anchor; the wind switched NE to gale force and so we stayed for two days.  We met other cruisers, some of which I knew from the Ventura, Calif. area.  It is a small world, the cruising world.  We left near the end of the gale taking advantage of the stiff offshore winds.  Here we headed south and east for Bahia de Santa Maria, another 250 nautical miles further on.
     Three days of rain and cold wind brought us to the mouth of a large bay, Bahia de Santa Maria.  We were simply going to head to Bahia Santa Magdalena, but this bay seemed very accessible.  We entered the mouth of the bay at night and with GPS, radar, fathometer, knotmeter, charts and a ready anchor we found our way to five fathoms and anchored.  By morning we discovered a big beautiful crescent bay and calm seas.  The weather turned warm and pod after pod of whales began to show.  We explored the bay and left for the opening so as to make Bahia Santa Magdalena before nightfall.
     We made Bahia Santa Magdalena (Mag Bay) about 5:00 pm and found ourselves entering a bay the size of our own San Francisco Bay, only without bridges, buildings, jets, boats or people. It was nearly empty with the exception of several fishing pangas (open skiff type boats) and pods on top of pods of whale families.  Here we made our way up to and anchored at Belcher Point (named after a British Admiralty Captain).  About two hours later the wind veered south and east putting us onto a lee shore.  We weighed anchor in the pitch black night and endeavored north to Punta Santa Magdalena (Man of War Cove).  Using the light house, radar, fathometer, knotmeter and GPS as a guide we needled our way into the cove and anchored in 4 fathoms.  It was choppy, rainy and squally.  I stood anchor watch and the morning gave way to a pristine flat water cove surrounded by a small fishing village - quite a contrast to the very scary night.
     Within the anchorage I met the Puerto Capitan.  He was gracious and so were we.  I made him a Hawaiian style fishing lure/hand line (learned from Al Bento) and we had a friend for life.  The cove is bordered by a long, wide sand spit to the north - perfect for jogging, swimming and fishing.  We had this part of the cove all to ourselves.  I also hiked over the small mountains to view Bahia de Santa Maria from aloft over the cliffs.  It was beautiful beyond dreams.
     After several days the wind and sea called again.  We departed for the bay entrance around 10:00 am in hopes of the best current and wind to lead us out.  We made the entrance some hours later and amongst pods and pods of whales we directed our course south and east again toward Cabo San Lucas.  Our journey was again blessed and the wind filled in NW 20-22 knots.  We made Cabo Falso some 2 days later and cleared the famous Arch Rock of Cabo just in time to see the Southern Cross rise and rotate around the arch.  This was the first time my crew had seen the Southern Cross, let alone the Arch Rock of Cabo.  Truly a memorable occasion.
     Cabo San Lucas is the cosmopolitan city of the Baja and marks the end of the “Baja Ha Ha.”  Here is where cruising sailors either head off into the Sea of Cortez or across it to the south. Cabo is also a port of entry, meaning a visit to Immigration, the Port Captain, the bank and the City Administration of Cabo San Lucas is mandatory.   The checking-in process, affectionately called the Cabo Dance, takes about 4-5 hours, counting walking.  And it is a good dance.  The officials are so nice, though they didn’t start out that way.  When they determined the benevolent spirit of aloha we brought with us, it all changed.  Good thing too, because otherwise it would be hell in the heat.  Berthing in the CABO ISLE MARINA is very expensive and cost us $65.00 for a 32 ft. boat per night.  One night only, please...  We made grand use of the anchorage (free) and the inflatable.  We partied and I was able to find a small surf break in the bay.
     Several days later and burned out on margaritas (Cabo was our first Margaritaville port) it was time to move on, this time across the Sea of Cortez to a special little island called Isla Isabella, which is an ancient cinder cone sort of like Hanauma Bay on Oahu.  We arrived again in the night and were able to anchor in 7 fathoms in the extinct cinder cone until morning, when we moved to the eastern side of the island and anchored in a sand and coral bottom.  This cove was the first tropical cove of Mexico at about 22* North Latitude.  This is also where Jacques Cousteau did a special on sea birds, of which there were plenty.  There were also iguanas which at night would feast on Goony Bird eggs.  The island was so unique we stayed for three days, finally departing for the Mexican mainland some 100 miles further east. 

 
 

      We approached the coast a day later as expected and decided to enter San Blas.  As usual it was dark on our approach, but the Mantechen Bay which borders San Blas was so broad and protected, we entered it anyway and finally anchored in 12ft. of water in a flat calm serene cove.
     As the Puerto Capitan’s office was so far away we elected not to check in and instead checked out before sunrise and headed for Chacala to the south.  Chacala is a little fishing village accessed by a coastal road from Puerto Vallarta and positioned in a medium sized cove.  We entered in the afternoon and anchored off the Puerto Capitan’s office.  Here we did try to check in, but the Capitan was not around.   The town waterfront has a wide crescent beach.  Here we played.  I jogged, I swam, I surfed.  The evening brought out the lobsters and margaritas.  We met a few land yacht owners (gringos from Norte America) and partied heartily through the night.

     Two days later we headed for Banderas Bay and Puerto Vallarta.  This would be end of the rode for one crew member and class mate Genie, who needed to get back to work.  This was also the beginning of the prep work for our trans-oceanic voyage back to Hawaii some 2,800 miles to the West.  The entrance into Banderas Bay is a little tricky because the entrance is shallow in areas and uncharted submerged rocks (big ones) are reported.  I told my crew that we would not hit one because they would inevitably name the rock after the first vessel which did hit it.  “Tuatha Rocks” did not sound good to me.       Banderas Bay is one of the largest bays in the world and will some day inevitably become very populated.  Currently small fishing villages surround the bay along the NW and SE sides.  Puerto Vallarta is on the most easterly side.  It is also the center for the popular MEXORC  Banderas Bay regatta.  We entered Puerto Vallarta, again in the evening, and were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves at a berth with fresh water and electricity - our first in over thirty days.  Puerto Vallarta is a cruisers’ mecca and here we met many cruisers from all over the world - going to places all over the world.  There were mega yachts, medium yachts, sailing yachts and motor craft of many descriptions.  Here, too, were little cruising centers with highly helpful x-patriot cruisers answering questions and providing services -for a fee.  Here, too, I found the Hawaii Yacht Club burgee emblazoned onto a light house restaurant wall.  In Puerto Vallarta I learned the bus system and traveled into the old parts of town.  Here one can purchase all kinds of silver wares that Mexico is famous for.  A beautiful town with beautiful and industrious people.
      It was now February 25, 2002; winter time and time to get the boat ready for the impending trans-pacific run to Hawaii.  I checked out the rig, cleaned the bottom, filled the water tanks, charged the batteries, provisioned the boat and checked the weather.  We did this all in two days.  We were then off, across an ocean blue with the adventure spirit of just two.  It would be four hours on and four hours off for the next 29 days.  The game plan was to follow 22* N or 23* N all the way to Hawaii.  The Mexicans who had never heard of Hawaii thought we were nuts.  We were soon to find out they were right.        On February 27 we were off.  It took us a day to clear Banderas Bay, another half day to clear the off lying dangers (well offshore - up to 50 miles offshore!) and four days to clear the Baja peninsula and enter the wide expansive Pacific Ocean.  We tapped into the Pacific Seafarers Net only to find out we were the first vessel of the season crossing the N. Pacific, and 1.5 weeks later we found out why.  We met with a gale which picked us up at 125* W and stayed with us for five days.  The gale, which gave us 35-50 knots sustained winds with 15-20ft. breaking seas, was very tiring.  “Tuatha” fared well through it all and nothing broke - nothing.  The West Sail 32 is what they say, “Hell bent for stout”.  And 29 days from our start we made Oahu.

      On March 29, 2002 at 8:00 pm we made the Ala Wai Harbor and the Hawaii Yacht Club.  Archie and Gilligan helped tie us up, not realizing at first who we were.  My beard was over two inches long and scruffy I was.  Upon the discovery of the end of a successful “Baja Ha Ha”-Mexico voyage we were soon joined by Tony, Larry, Lynn, Barbara and others.  We partied well enough.  For we had made the “Baja Ha Ha” successfully!   The name Hawaii Yacht Club has been spread far and wide by the cruising clubs of previous generations.  Signs of HYC Aloha were everywhere.  I saw it.  The HYC sailors are truly regarded everywhere there is wind and sea as steadfast loyal cruisers.

      So why not Mexico by way of Hawaii?  With thought, planning and will power the Mexico “Baja HA HA” is accessible to Hawaii cruisers.  The entire journey can be accomplished in 7 months.

Capt Skip Riley

HYC Cruising and Voyaging Society